If you find the camera Raw option in previous versions too cumbersome, you can select that feature in Lightroom 5.7 and make it a quick choice without ever opening the Camera Raw window. This is usually a good idea when traveling or working with a group of people. With Lightroom 5.7, you can set the controls so it goes to Camera Raw when you click the shutter button. From here, you can quickly adjust the colors, brighten, or adjust the Shadows, Whites, Blacks, and Contrast options. You can add shadows, sharpen edges, or correct a color cast, for example. Or, you can simply alter the image as a whole when, say, you found a color tint throughout the entire image. If you don’t have time to correct all of these issues in Camera Raw, you still have the option to lock the settings when you save the file.
The first time you open a RAW file without using the camera Raw settings, Lightroom 5.8 adds all of the default settings. If you already know something about the image, you can just skip to the second step via the camera menu but otherwise, you will need to choose one of the on-screen presets.
This is my workflow for taking photos of my artwork: I use my Nikon D300s, and the exposure settings are set to Aperture Priority, and the shutter speed is automatically set to Auto, and I shoot in RAW. From time to time, I will shoot in JPG if I’m not actively changing my settings. There is no need to bracket photos; I typically use the test shot when testing the image, and if I want, I also set the f/stop, shutter speed, and I critically review the image. After that, I know what I want, and Lightroom can help me with that. When I’m shooting, I use a tripod, a camera flash, and I use the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens. The only thing I rarely use is the high dynamic range bracketing. I shoot most of the time in RAW, but if I’m processing the image for delivery, I will switch to JPEG to save time. I must add, though, that an obvious advantage to RAW is that the file size is about 30-40% smaller than the JPEG, depending on the quality. 933d7f57e6
The app also sports a Long Exposure feature that allows you to lighten an image by using a short exposure edit and zeroing in on any image dynamic areas. You can readily zoom in on an image, as well.
Commands appear on the left side of panel and in the top-right corner. You can combine commands from the menu and panel, meaning the panel can override the menu options. I found this very useful sometimes, as it made sense to have the navigation arrows on the panel and not in the menu. There’s a panel zoom option which toggles between zoomed and unzoomed view, and there’s a little triangular wrench next to the zoom in / out icons which toggles the zoom to 100% or 75% on the selected panel.
These features mostly work as you’d expect, but there are a few quirks. For instance, the manual focus or Aperture-like D-Pad for moving focus didn’t seem to affect anything. Similarly, the Control-click shortcut to the “Apply” (fill) and “Layer” (stroke) commands worked as expected but the shortcut controls for the Soft Light, Gradient and Tile Brushes didn’t. You can use the Pencil for creating a brush, but you can’t use it to do any adjustments on the Brush, so the only thing you can do in that area is to erase the existing brush. You can change the values of Lightness (as shown by the gradient on the right side of the brush interface), but you can’t actually set a new value. Also, the actions in the Actions panel at the bottom of the screen didn’t work correctly as some should have. Selecting an action should only have activated the next step (unlike in Adobe Lightroom and other apps), but that didn’t happen, with the next action appearing after the previous one was selected. The same occurred within the same panel when you pressed the “—>” shortcut. One particular inconsistency was I had difficulty naming a layer (using the layer icon on the right side of the panel). After three attempts I reset the layer name and it repeated correctly to “layer1” all three times.